I hope we can put 2019’s Nautilus-mania down in history, but another part of my brain is not so sure. In any case, the chances that you’ll walk into the old AD, drop down a few compost meats, and come out with this complex beauty – the great replica Patek Philippe 5740 Nautilus — are all turning sharply toward zero. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try.
One of the big surprises of Baselworld 2018 was Patek Philippe’s decision to add a grand complication model – specifically a perpetual calendar – to the Nautilus line. Or was it? Nautilus-with-complication is an old story and the pre-Basel rumour mill was promoting the ‘perpetual’ idea pretty heavily. So when Patek released the ref. 5740 there was a complete sense of “Surprise – what is that?”
The movement is one of Patek’s all-time greats: the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q – also found in the collection in the Calatrava-cased ref. 5327. It’s actually the same movement that was introduced in the landmark ref. 3940 in the mid-1980s and continually improved upon over the years. Those improvements consist of a Gyromax balance wheel and Spiromax hairspring. The perpetual calendar display indicates the day, date, month and leap year by hands, as well as a moon phase and 24-hour display.
The white gold case measures 40mm, has a screw-down crown, helping to ensure water-resistance to 60 metres, and comes on a white gold bracelet with a folding clasp.
Nevertheless, there’s an awful lot happening on the dial, this is still every inch a Nautilus. As a matter of fact, it’s really obvious how the case design is so strong that even an information-packed, three-register display doesn’t detract from its clarity and cohesion.
The horizontal ribbed dial — in this case the same blue as the 40th anniversary model and with the usual sun exposure — holds these displays in place – anchors those displays really well. As on all calibre 240 Q models, the arrangement of the sub-dials is very instinctive, so the information is easy to get. The combined date and moonphase dial, set at 6 o’clock, is bigger than the other two, adding weight and balance to the overall composition.
The 5740 feels superb on the wrist – nice weight, perfect balance, good size. Luckily, the fake Patek resisted the temptation to go for the 42mm diameter it used for the 40th anniversary collection and stuck to the 40mm. Such a great design doesn’t need big dimensions any way.
The perfect arrangement of the corrector pushers for the calendar is barely noticeable at first. But it’s the sort of refinement Patek would like to bring to its work: visually subtle improvements that involve what seems like a disproportionate amount of technical effort – in this way, what Patek replica watches calls “deflection mechanisms”. You already know it’s so beautiful.